⚠️ Warning!

This document is seriously outdated; it was last updated in 2018. We suggest getting help elsewhere.

User's Guide

Last change: 2018–06–26

  1. Track files and data saving

    Ride track data is saved to a standard GPX file format that can be later shared or manipulated with one of the numerous GPX tools. When you reset the cyclometer, GPX file along with the corresponding Summary and SVG graph files are zipped and moved onto the USB storage.

    To access your zipped ride track files directly, visit the folder /Documents/UrbanBiker/tracks located on your USB storage.

  2. Main layout and buttons

    Main app screen is composed of a number of fields that act like buttons:

    • Click: Primary action.
    • Long-click: Perform an (alternate) action, invoke popup menu, etc.

    The amount of swiping or sliding gesture commands on the main screen is minimized. We regard such gestures as not suited for an app designed to be used in challenging environments.


    Click to start/stop/(toggle passive mode). Long-click to pause, hold down to countdown 20, 45, 90, 180 or 300 seconds before resuming. While in countdown, long-click again to raise the interval and/or restart the countdown.

    On — GPS is turned on, track is being recorded, and distance, duration and all other metrics are being measured and provided. The button resembles a 'stop' button, to remind you that tracking will be stopped when you press the button.

    Off — GPS is turned off, no track is being recorded, and no distance, duration, ascent, descent nor any other GPS-dependent metric is being measured or provided. The button resembles a 'record' button, to remind you that tracking (track recording) will start when you press the button.

    Pause — GPS remains active but track is not being recorded, and no distance, duration, ascent, descent or other statistic is being measured. Only speed and altitude data remain updated for reference only. No max or avg speed will be recorded, and no min/max altitude either.

    Countdown — You can long-click the button to activate a countdown. Seconds will be counted from 20, 60, 90, 180 or 300 down to zero. GPS will be resumed upon reaching the zero. Hold down the button to increase the countdown interval.

    Passive mode — GPS will not be turned on, instead it will only be used if another app is keeping it turned on (eg. another tracker app, Maps, or similar). This is particularly useful if multiple GPS apps are used at the same time, in order to preserve battery power. Note: To use Passive mode, you must enable it in the settings first.

    GPS signal

    GPS provider must be enabled in your system to use location features of this app. It must be set to High accuracy mode.

    If the device is on the move but GPS icon is not green (in the status bar) this clearly indicates a weak GPS signal. When the GPS signal is weak, it is not possible to calculate your exact location nor speed at that moment. This can introduce errors to meter readings, ride statistic, and recorded tracks.

    Weak GPS signal can be caused by extreme weather, buildings, vehicles, trees, hills, or anything else that obstructs direct line of sight between the device and the clear sky — or at least a larger portion of the sky.

    In order to maintain accurate meter readings, ride statistic, and recorded tracks, please keep the device exposed to the unobstructed sky as much as possible during a ride.


    Watches for your movements in the vicinity of a guarded location, ie. "inside a Fence".

    While you are inside a Fence, track is altered during recording in order to hide your exact movements from anyone who is later viewing the track.

    Ride statistic (altitude, speed, etc…) stays exactly the same as without the FenceGuard. Only the coordinates of the recorded locations inside the fence are being altered, not their effect on ride statistic! See the image below for an example of how this looks like.

    This is especially useful for hiding the exact location of your home, work place, or other important places of your choice from the recorded tracks. You can then upload the tracks to the Internet or share them with anyone without compromising your privacy.

    In order to use this feature, you must manually add locations you want to protect by using the FenceGuard/Add fence menu option while the GPS is turned on and location is available.


    Long-click to select and activate another profile. Short click will just output the name of the currently active profile.

    Profiles are a great way to quickly modify app behaviour without going through settings screen. Also a great way to separately record multiple interleaved activities.

    For example, when you hop off a bike onto your feet or into a car, you can quickly change the profile to apply adequate settings and start separate track recording — without interfering with, or resetting, the previous track recording.

    When finished, change the profile back and merely continue where you left off.

    This can also be useful if you ride more than one bike/vehicle (for example, you ride both MTB and road bike) and want to keep separate statistic, or different application appearance based on the ride style.

    Almost every app setting you alter gets saved within the currently active profile. Additionaly, track recording and cyclometer data are also saved per-profile.

    Exceptions are settings like language, or GPS mode — it's natural for them to apply to all profiles. FenceGuard protected locations are also shared among all profiles. All such settings are marked with "(All profiles)".


    Long-click to toggle map on/off. Click to show or hide parts of the app interface while the map is visible.

    A popup dashboard will appear when you long-click anywhere on the map while it is being displayed. From the dashboard, you can quickly alter most common and important map settings.

    On the map, you'll see a My Location button. Click this button to quickly put your current location into view (indicated by a blue dot). Double-click to toggle between the Following mode and the Auto-rotate mode.

    While in the Following mode, the map will automatically scroll as you move to keep your location centered in the view. While in the Auto-rotate mode, the map will additionally rotate to keep your moving direction pointing upwards (forward).

    All the standard touch gestures are available for you to control the map view. These include pinch, spread, two-finger drag, two-finger rotate…

    If you rotate the map so that the north is no longer pointing upwards, a compass will appear to indicate the north direction. Click on it to align the map with the north pointing upwards again.

    While the map is visible, contrast button changes it's icon and functionality:

    Click to toggle map layer type. Long-click to toggle the Traffic overlay. Please note, traffic overlay is somewhat sparsely available only for some regions and for some zoom levels.

    While the offline maps are displayed, this button will toggle through all the map files in the selected offline maps folder. Traffic overlay will also work, but please note that it requires the Internet.

    Offline maps

    Offline maps are available for you as an alternative to the online Google maps. They are especially useful if the Internet coverage in your area is poor, or you want to conserve data traffic or battery by not using the mobile Internet. Most frequently they will be derived from the OpenStreetMap project (www.openstreetmap.org).

    Offline maps are files (either downloaded or created) which contain geographic data for the desired area. When you browse an offline map, data is read from a file on your device rather than the Internet. Most often this results in faster map rendering, especially if the Internet connection is poor.

    To use offline maps, you must either download or create the desired map file. Two map file formats are supported:

    • Vector maps — Mapsforge format (.map). Pros: Smaller file size, high quality image. Cons: CPU intensive rendering.
    • Raster maps — Rmaps format (.sqlitedb). Pros: Faster, less CPU usage. Cons: Huge file size, poorer image quality.

    To download a vector offline map of your area, visit:

    Raster maps are most easily obtained by using a software tool like Mobile Atlas Creator (MOBAC — mobac.sourceforge.net). MOBAC is a free software that allows you to download maps from numerous map sources, and save them in the raster file format. It is compatible with Windows, Mac OS X and Linux.

    After obtaining the desired map file, store it onto the external storage of your device and point Urban Biker to the folder path.


    Click to toggle mode (if unlocked). Long-click to invoke a popup menu with more commands.

    Urban Biker provides the following meter readings and statistics:

    • Speed, avg/max³
    • Distance
    • Duration
    • Elapsed time
    • Altitude, min/max
    • Ascent
    • Descent
    • Slope (grade), min/max
    • Vertical speed, min/max
    • Energy, avg per hour/avg per 100 km/mi
    • Power, min/max³
    • Climb power, min/max
    • Efficacy
    • Acceleration, min/max
    • Pace, avg/max
    • Heart rate, avg/max²
    • Cadence, avg/max²
    • Gear ratio, min/max²
    • Clock
    • Temperature, min/max¹
    • Pressure, min/max¹
    • Wriggle percent
    • Total distance (odometer)
    • Total duration
    • Total ascent
    • Total descent
    • Total energy

    More readings and statistics may be added in the future.

    Note: By default, cyclometer measures moving statistic. It will automatically pause when no motion is detected, but it can also be paused manually by long-clicking the GPS button (please read more in the text above).

    ¹ Please note, temperature and pressure sensors are available only on supporting devices.
    ² These readings are available only by means of a dedicated external sensor (Bluetooth Smart or Ant+)
    ³ These readings are available either with or without a dedicated external sensor. Data is taken from the GPS and possibly other sensors if the dedicated sensor is not used, which may lower the accuracy.

    Wriggle percent — measures how wriggly (curvy) is your route, ie. how much it differs from a straight line. Higher the number, the more your route is wriggly — and thus probably inefficient.

    This can be useful to make your routes more efficient. The goal is to keep wriggle percent as low as possible. Lower wriggle percent implies more straight-line driving, and straight-line driving minimizes both distance and duration to travel from point A to B at a given speed.

    You can easily obtain a fractal dimension (see Wikipedia) of your route from the wriggle percent. Just add 100 to the wriggle percent and then divide the result by 100. For example, if the wriggle percent is 15% the calculation follows:

    Fractal Dimension
    = (100 + Wriggle Percent) / 100
    = (100 + 15) / 100
    = 1.15


    Click to ring a bell (if enabled). Long-click to toggle the Automatic bell ring mode. In this mode the bell will ring automatically on significant slowdown (eg. when braking).

    Bell type can be set within the settings:

    • Ding
    • Ring-ring
    • Horn
    • Yoo-hoo

    Confidence indicator is displayed in the upper part of the speedometer. It's a bar which fills as time goes by without a speed update. When full, the speed value is too old and cannot be trusted anymore.

    Pace arrows are displayed in the middle-right of the speedometer, next to the digits. They indicate when you are going faster, slower or about the average speed. Up arrow means faster, down arrow means slower. No arrow means you are going about the average speed (within 5% tolerance).

    Moving noises (roaring)

    Long-click to toggle on/off. Click to toggle Constant mode (speed-insensitive).

    Constant mode is indicated by the letter C in the upper part of the icon. It produces a sound you would get if you were riding at a constant speed of about 20 km/h (12.5 mph). This is useful if you want to produce roaring noises without requiring GPS data — for example if the GPS signal is weak (obstructed by tall buildings, deep woods…), or you turned GPS off to save the battery.

    Roaring sound types avilable:

    • Freehub clicking
    • Beeping tone
    • Chopper-like

    Note! Beeping tone is the strongest roaring sound on many devices, and usually the most perceptible one for humans. Use it whenever you are dealing with loud city traffic or otherwise need maximum safety (eg. on a downhill course).


    Long-click to toggle on/auto/off, hold to cycle through this. Click to toggle blink mode while turned on.

    • Blink fast
    • Blink slow
    • No blinking

    While in Pocket mode (ie. automatic mode), the application will use the proximity sensor of your device (if available) to turn the flashlight off automatically when not needed, for example when you put the device into a pocket. The moment you get it out of the pocket, flashlight will be turned back on.

    Please note, flashlight function may not be available or may not work on all devices. Also, some devices may not support fast blinking due to significant delays in their flashlight operation.

    Note! Flashlight usually draws a significant amount of battery power when turned on, even more than the GPS. Be advised when using the flashlight to also keep an eye on the battery level.

    Contrast / Map layer toggle

    Click to toggle color theme. Long-click to toggle Automatic theme mode. Available modes:

    • Custom light color theme
    • Custom dark color theme

    While the Automatic theme mode is enabled, the application will use the illumination sensor of your device (if available) to switch between the Custom light and Custom dark themes automatically.

    While the map is visible, contrast button changes it's icon and functionality:

    Click to toggle map layer type. Long-click to toggle the Traffic overlay.

    Available map layers:

    • Map
    • Satellite
    • Terrain

    Please note, traffic overlay is somewhat sparsely available only for some regions and for some zoom levels.

    While offline maps are displayed, this button will toggle through all map files in selected offline maps folder. Traffic overlay is also at disposition, but please note that it requires the Internet.

  3. Status bar

    Status bar displays most important information about the state of the app at all times on the main screen, and cannot be disabled. Information is presented by means of color-coded icons (or fields).

    Field meaning is as follows, in order:

    Location update interval is 0-1, 2, 3, 4 or 5 seconds, respectively.
    Location update interval is 10-20 seconds. Tracking may become inaccurate.
    Location update interval is 30 seconds or more. Tracking accuracy is greatly reduced so this should be used only when battery saving is a top priority.

    Tracking is active and satellite signal is good.
    Tracking is active but satellite signal is weak, or the subject is not moving.
    Tracking is inactive. Location provider might be disabled in Android.

    Fenceguard is enabled.
    Fenceguard is enabled and you're inside a fence.
    Fenceguard is disabled, or there are no fences defined.

    All sensors used in the profile are connected and providing their data.
    All sensors used in the profile are connected but data from some sensors is not yet being used. Usually this means that wheel circumference is not set for the speed sensor, or the measurement hasn't completed yet if automatic circumference is enabled.
    At least one of the sensors used in the profile is disconnected and not providing data.
    There are no sensors present in the profile, or the tracking is inactive.

    Barometric/thermobarometric altitude is enabled, calibrated and providing data if tracking is active.
    Barometric/thermobarometric altitude is enabled but not calibrated, so it's not able to provide data yet. If GPS is turned on and satellite signal good then the calibration is in progress (usually takes about 5 minutes to complete).
    Barometric/thermobarometric altitude is disabled.

    Pocket display mode is active.
    Pocket display mode is inactive.

  4. Motion sensors

    Urban Biker supports Bluetooth LE and ANT+ external wireless motion sensors of the following types:

    • Speed
    • Cadence
    • Speed & Cadence
    • Heart rate
    • Power

    To start using a sensor:

    1. Make sure the sensor is mounted properly.
    2. Make sure Bluetooth LE and/or ANT+ are enabled on your device. Bluetooth LE is only available on Android 4.3 and above. ANT+ is available on many devices without further prerequisites. However there are devices that support it but don't have it installed. Please make sure you have ANT Radio Service installed from Google Play before trying to use ANT+ sensors.
    3. Act like you are already using the sensor so it gets triggered and awaken:
      • Speed sensors: Rotate the wheel until the sensor gets triggered (eg. by a magnet)
      • Cadence sensors: Rotate the crank until the sensor gets triggered (eg. by a magnet)
      • Speed & Cadence sensors: Rotate the wheel or the crank until the sensor gets triggered (eg. by a magnet)
      • Heart rate sensors: Moist the electrodes or strap the sensor to your chest
      • Power sensors: Rotate the wheel or start pedalling
    4. Go to Settings→Sensors and click the Scan button.

    Available sensor(s) should appear on the screen. Click on the desired sensor and select Add to the profile to start using it with the current profile.

    Sensor(s) will get connected when the tracking is active. Conversely, they will get disconnected when you turn off the tracking after a ride.

    Speed / Cadence sensors

    Speed and cadence sensors have further properties that can be set up (unlike Heart rate or Power sensors). Click on the Speed or Cadence sensor that is used the Profile and select Properties.

    Properties screen is rather self-explanatory, so we'll just write a note about Automatic wheel circumference feature here.

    Automatic wheel circumference measurement is enabled by default, and wheel circumference value is not set after the sensor was just added to the profile. This means the speed will not be obtained from this sensor until either you enter the proper circumference, or the measurement takes place during a ride.

    Circumference measurement is done continuously during a ride if enabled, but for it to successfully determine the size of your wheel it has some minumim requirements on the ride:

    • The ride must be at least several hundreds (100s) meters long
    • Must be ridden on approximately straight line, without sharp turns
    • Must not be ridden too slowly, anything slower than a brisk walk is too slow.

    In short, the measurements will be more successful on longer and faster rides.

    There is also an option to change the number of triggers (eg. magnets) used by the sensor. If you use more than one trigger, we suggest you to distribute them evenly (symetrically) on the wheel. Sensors with no external triggers (eg. Garmin Bike Speed Sensor) use gravity as a trigger, and it's safe to assume they operate with a single (1) internal trigger.

  5. Barometric altitude

    Our Autocalibrated Barometric Altitude (ABA) brings greatly improved altitude accuracy and stability compared to notoriously erratic satellite-based altitude. It requires a device with barometer sensor to work¹, and doesn't require the Internet.

    Autocalibration feature makes ABA as transparent as possible: not needing any effort on your part, not even a single click. It simply works out-of-the-box.

    It even takes care of atmospheric pressure drift (eg. varying weather). Atmospheric pressure drift is main source of errors in barometric altimeters. ABA automatically adapts and minimizes drift errors, even on longest rides.

    The accuracy of ABA is in the range of ±1 meter or better. That's a 10x (tenfold!) improvement over satellite-based altitude accuracy, which is about ±10m and often more in urban canyons. It's also worth noting that barometric altitude is not susceptible to errors induced by poor signal reception (eg. in urban canyons), unlike satellite-based altitude.

    More accurate Altitudes also means more accurate Power, Climb power, Energy, Ascent/Descent, Vertical speed and other data, so the benefits of ABA are quite substantial.

    Note! Please use the Barometric altitude only when the device is exposed to the open atmosphere, eg. while walking, running, biking, paragliding, or similar! Please keep it OFF while in pressurized, closed or air-conditioned vehicles like cars or airplanes! Otherwise you will get errorneous altitudes and other related readouts.


    It takes about 5 minutes for ABA to do initial calibration and begin providing barometric altitude data when starting cold. During this time you'll still see satellite-based altitudes.

    Calibration takes place while tracking is active and satellite signal good, and even while the tracking is paused and the device is not completely stationary. This is one way to bypass satellite-based altitudes during the initial calibration time, if undesired: simply walk around with the device for 5 minutes while the tracking is paused (not turned off) before you begin your journey, eg. while packing.

    ABA will keep it's calibration during a whole ride and for about 20 minutes after the tracking was turned off or last satellite signal received. When this time expires the calibration process will have to take place again.

    ¹ Devices with barometer sensor support include: Samsung Galaxy S7/S6/S5/S4/S3, Note5/Note4/Note3; Sony Xperia XZ/X/Xc, Z5/Z5c/Z3/Z3c; Motorola Moto X; LG G5/G4; Xiaomi Mi, and many more.

  6. Temperature

    This app can derive ambient temperature readouts on devices which otherwise lack dedicated ambient temperature sensor¹. This is called the derived temperature sensor. It doesn't use the Internet, but computes the ambient temperature based on other sensors inside the device. Accuracy of the method will vary from device to device, but it should generally stay in the range of ±1°C up to ±5°C (maybe more if your device is not cooperating well).

    Temperature data can be put to good use by the barometer, to further improve on (already great) barometric altitude accuracy. This option is called a Thermo Barometer, and can be found in Settings→Tracking→Altitudes, or the Control Panel. It is turned off by default. Please turn it ON only when the device is exposed to the open atmosphere, eg. while walking, running, biking, paragliding, or similar! Otherwise you can get errorneous altitudes and other related readouts.

    There is an option in Settings→Advanced→Temperature where you can change the type of the derived sensor and influence the calculations. Currently there are two types: Type A and B. Type A should work well on majority of modern devices, including premium devices like Samsung Galaxy, Sony Xperia and other ultra-slim devices, and devices with big screens like tablets and phablets. However, some devices are simply built differently so there's also the Type B, made for somewhat more bulkier and/or compact devices like Sony Xperia Compact series, and devices like some Motorolas or HTCs, just to name a few. If you feel the calculations of one sensor type are incorrect for you, simply try the other type.

    Note! Please turn the Thermo Barometer option ON only when the device is exposed to the open atmosphere, eg. while walking, running, biking, paragliding, or similar! Please keep it OFF while in pressurized, closed or air-conditioned vehicles like cars or airplanes! Otherwise you can get errorneous altitudes and other related readouts.

    Note! This sensor may need several minutes to settle down on temperature change, due to physical restrictions of the method. Also, if the battery of your device is not genuine, is of poor quality, damaged, or if the device is connected to a charger, please expect more inaccurate readouts. Temperature readouts will also generally be higher if you are holding the device in your hand, because your hand is heating the device.

    ¹ Vast majority of devices today don't have a dedicated ambient temperature sensor

  7. Power, Energy, Efficacy

    Power meter

    Displays current (mechanical) power output. There are two modes for power meter readings:

    • Total power (or simply Power) — Displays total current mechanical power.
    • Climb power — Displays the power used solely for overcoming the gravity (or the power of gravity doing work for you, if negative).

    Every mode can display the following power types:

    • Real — Watts (W), horse powers (HP), etc.
    • Specific — Watts per kg/lb. This allows for easier comparison of power outputs between different riders or vehicles.

    Specific climb power does not require any parameters to be set up, it's calculated only from the data acquired from satellite or barometer. Thus, it is not affected by the (in)accuracy of the parameters.

    To obtain real power values, some parameters are required to be set up.

    Most important are the weights. You can set the weights for rider (driver), vehicle, cargo, passengers, and wheels separately. Please note: Vehicle weight value should always include wheels weight. The separate field for wheels weight is needed only to compute rotational inertia, which in turn improves accuracy of power and energy computations.

    Next are the air drag area Cd·A (drag coefficient multiplied by frontal area, see Wikipedia), and rolling resistance coefficient Crr (depends on the surface and the tyre type). Typical values for a bicycle: Cd·A = 0.4~0.5 m², Crr = 0.005~0.02

    Accuracy of power readings depends on the accuracy of these parameters (in addition to the accuracy of the satellite/barometer data). App will provide some default parameter values for different profiles. Please make sure these parameters are correct for your purpose.

    Please note that due to the nature of the calculations, power readings have an inherent of up to 1 minute behind the real time. This means that the value displayed at any given moment is in fact the power produced about a minute earlier. This only applies when there is no barometer to be used for altitudes.

    When barometer is available and used for altitude measurements, power gets much more precise and the inherent delay in calculations gets notably shorter.

    Climb power — measures your power output while climbing (or descending), without regarding the losses like tyre friction or air drag.

    If you do a lot of hills this can be a rather good indicator of the peak power performance of yourself or your vehicle, assuming the power developed going up the hill is close to the peak attainable power, which is often the case. When riding slowly (like when climbing steeply) air drag can be neglected, thus the power of losses is approximately equal to the tyre friction losses. Tyre friction losses can get anywhere between 5 watts for a narrow road tyre, smooth surface and/or light rider, to 50 watts or more for a knobby mtb/freeride/downhill tyre, heavy rider, or rough surface. Add this to the climb power to get a more accurate value. For motor vehicles, tyre losses can also be neglected.

    Climb power will get negative while descending, meaning you are actually gaining power from the gravitational energy (albeit converting it to heat in brakes). The more negative the value, the faster (or more steeply) you were descending.

    Please note, there are inherent delays in climb power readings caused by the nature of the calculations, which make it lag behind the real time. For example, when you just start to climb a hill, only after about 45 seconds will the meter read a sensible value. That's why there's no point in trying to measure the climbing power in overcoming "bumps" on the road, eg. when climbing/descending anything with an elevation gain/drop of less than 20 meters (70 ft). This only applies when there is no barometer to be used for altitudes.

    When barometer is available and used for altitude measurements, climb power gets much more precise and the inherent delay in calculations gets notably shorter.

    Energy meter

    Energy meter will display overall energy that was required to perform the activity.

    For example, how much kcal did you spend for the ride so far. Two parameters are required: Efficiency (η), and Basal metabolic rate (BMR). Not all calories from the food (or fuel) will get converted to a useful work. Efficiency tells the fraction of the total energy intake that gets converted to a useful mechanical work. Human body has around 20-25% efficiency, and the same goes for average efficiency of modern cars. See Wikipedia for more.

    BMR tells how much kcal your body needs per hour while resting, for basic metabolic functions. This energy gets spent regardless of whether you were doing some work at that time, or not. See Wikipedia for more.

    For vehicles and other mechanical devices BMR should be set to fuel consumption per hour of idling (in kcal!). Be sure to convert the amount of fuel to kcal units needed for BMR. Usual figure for standard passenger car would be in the range of 6'000 to 10'000 kcal per hour (about 0.7 to 1.2 liters of petrol).

    Typical values: η = 25 %, BMR = 80 kcal/h (8000 kcal/h for a car)

    Accuracy of energy readings depends on the accuracy of these parameters (in addition to the accuracy of the satellite/barometer data). App will provide some default parameter values for different profiles. Please make sure these parameters are correct for your purpose.


    Part of the energy spent that would suffice to make the same trip by moving at constant speed equal to the average speed. Higher is better.

    In other words, if you ride steadily with the speed always very close the average speed this value should be above 90%.

    Note that this doesn't say anything about the ride economy in absolute terms. It just says how much energy would be saved if you didn't accelerate and brake as much. Energy 'wasted' accelerating and braking is 100% minus this number.

    Ride economy in absolute terms, on the other hand, should also take into account the overall energy spent for the ride (which depends on numerous factors, like average speed and power coefficients).

  8. Performance Graphs (SVG)

    Urban Biker can output SVG format performance graphs with detailed data for the following ride parameters:

    • Speed
    • Speed average
    • Altitude
    • Slope
    • Efficacy
    • Power
    • Power average
    • Climb power
    • Vertical speed
    • Acceleration
    • Temperature¹
    • Pressure¹
    • Heart rate¹
    • Cadence¹
    • Gear ratio¹

    ¹ On supporting devices.

    These graphs are available in both Distance and Duration base. You can set up SVG graph creation by going to the Settings→Tracking screen.

    To access performance graphs for a ride, export a track from the Tracks history screen as a ZIP archive file. You will find SVG graphs inside this archive. Open them in any modern web browser (eg. Chrome, Firefox, …), to view as an image.

    As SVG file is essentially a text file, you can also open it in any text editor to access its raw data. The data will look similar to this:

    "/><polyline class="data" points="

    This is an excerpt from a Distance–Altitude SVG graph file. Basically, it's a list of pairs of numbers separated by comma. The first number in a pair is Distance, and the second one is Altitude in this example. Eg. at a distance of 52101.7853 meters in a ride, the altitude was 730.6594 meters.

    There will also be some extra text (more precisely, code) at the beginning and the end of the file, that allows the data to be presented graphically when the file is viewed as an image.

    To convert SVG file to CSV file…

    It's easy to convert SVG files created with Urban Biker to a CSV file format (comma separated values) and use as a source of raw ride statistics data for any general purpose (eg. in a spreadsheet).

    To convert SVG to CSV, follow these steps:

    1. Open SVG file in any modern text or code editor
    2. By using a Find/Replace All feature, find all lines with exactly the following content:
      • If your editor SUPPORTS regular expressions:
      • If your editor DOES NOT support regular expressions:
        "/><polyline class="data" points="
    3. Replace these lines with a blank string (effectively deleting them).
    4. Remove any excess text from the beginning and the end of the file. If in doubt, simply remove every line which doesn't start with a digit. You'll be left with just a column of number pairs, something like:
    5. Save your work as a plain text file with a .csv file extension, eg. distance-altitude.csv

    You can then import the CSV file to any spreadsheet (eg. Excel) or a database for further processing of the data as desired.

    About the units

    Units of the data inside SVG graph files are always as follows:

    • Distance: meters [m]
    • Duration: seconds [s]
    • Speed: meters per second [m/s]
    • Altitude: meters [m]
    • Slope: percent [%]
    • Power: watts [W]
    • Climb power: watts per kilogram [W/kg]
    • Vertical speed: meters per second [m/s]
    • Acceleration: meters per second per second [m/s²]
    • Temperature: degrees Celsius [°C]
    • Pressure: hectopascals (millibars) [hPa, mbar]
    • Heart rate: beats per minute [bpm]
    • Cadence: rotations per minute [rpm]
    • Gear ratio: dimensionless

    In other words the data is mostly given in SI units, except for the Temperature and Pressure. These units generally differ from the units you see on the graph when you view it as an image in a browser. This is because the code at the end of the SVG file ensures automatic units conversion when displayed on the screen.

  9. Credits


    BIG THANKS to all translators at getlocalization.com!

    Especially deserving:

    ◦ Catalan (Andorra) by JCGIMISO
    ◦ Chinese by Lucas Wong
    ◦ Czech by Vlastimil Skácel, Pavel Vraj, dejf75
    ◦ Dutch by pimlie, Proempiet, Vertaal1, DutchGamingHuskie
    ◦ French by tigrourasta, Gregoire Garcia, peetleouf, Éric Senterre
    ◦ German by Knochenkotzer, Ingomar, Sedumjo, swash, SGrunwald
    ◦ Greek by Panos Moros
    ◦ Hungarian by nagyg80, Péter Bihari
    ◦ Italian by Valter Mura
    ◦ Japanese by HOHAHA
    ◦ Kannada by Sudheendra k, Ajay_Malavalli
    ◦ Lithuanian by tamsa
    ◦ Polish by Pioloon, darkdude, zacho
    ◦ Portuguese by LMM, Enrique Fadanelli
    ◦ Portuguese (Brasil) by TiagoOakfield, fabiom
    ◦ Romanian by warhead_ro, oleganywhere
    ◦ Russian by Oleg Gilev, Sergey Chekal, muzontnt, Tishkov Roman, Dzmitry Sitkevich, Alec Fadeyeff, Matvei Spiridonov
    ◦ Serbian by arhdarkodjuric
    ◦ Slovak by Ľubomír
    ◦ Spanish by DaveOliva, Luis Miguel Rodriguez, Joan C. GIMISÓ, DanielQ
    ◦ Swedish by LeiLar
    ◦ Turkish by acemtokgoz, raydingoz
    ◦ Ukrainian by Maryan Rachynskyy, Volodya Rozhitsky
    ◦ Urdu by Muhammad Ali Shah

    Forgive us if somebody was omitted by accident. Please let us know if we should also include you on the list.


    Ding is an authentic Spurcycle™ bell sound. Spurcycle is a trademark of Slone Studio, Inc.
    Yoo-hoo is a sound inspired by the Oaken character from the Disneys' Frozen movie. Disney, Frozen and Oaken are © Disney.
    Freehub sound is an authentic Novatec™ hub sound.
    Ascent tally sound based on the work © Chriddof (freesound.org - CC BY 3.0).
    Distance tally sound based on the work © Dianakc (soundbible.com - CC BY 3.0).


    Some of our icons were made by Situ Herrera from www.flaticon.com.
    "Hourglass" icon was made by Laura Beggs, from thenounproject.com.

    Smart Summary

    The idea and help for the Smart Summary feature came from Vito Caleandro

  10. Links

  11. Boring stuff

    Copyright © 2018 Sublimis


    Version changelog

    Disclaimer: This app is provided as is, and you use it at your own risk. We, the publisher, will not be held responsible for any mishap, loss of possession, injury or worse involving you or a third person, arising from app usage during a ride or otherwise.

    Please use this app wisely and do not operate it while driving a car, riding a motorbike, a bicycle, or any other vehicle. Always keep your eyes on the road.